Cambodia 2006 Part 1
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Arrival from the Laos/Cambodia border to Stung Treng.  The bridge is not yet finished so have to cross to the town by boat. 
The big city - Stung Treng.  Not much to do but change buses and continue south to Kratie. 
In Kratie (actually nearby Kampi) the main attraction is the dolphins.  We saw them much closer here then in southern Laos. 
A dolphin-spotting boat
Getting to Siem Reap from Kratie is slightly tricky.  You get a bus south headed for Phnom Penh and somewhere along the way intercept the northbound bus headed for Siem Reap.  The trick is not knowing if either bus is running on time at all, and therefore where to jump out.  You have to hope both drivers are awake enough to see each other and stop and then you change buses at the roadside.  All together it takes about 10 hours. 
The Grand Hotel d'Angkor ($300+/nt) contrasts strongly with typical houses along the river, literally just a stone's throw away. 
And this is what everyone comes to see - the spectacular views of Angkor Wat. 
View from behind on the long path to Ta Prom
Apsara sculptings are everywhere
Gods and demons line the entrance to Angkor Thom
Bas reliefs and big faces of Angkor Thom
Each of the four gates of Angkor Thom bears more huge faces and makes good pictures with their forest setting. 
Elephant terrace
Colourfully-dressed fruit seller on the way into Preh Khan
Ruins on top of Phnom Krom, near the Tonle Sap lake
View from Phnom Krom - no sunset tonight, but a spectacular lightening storm (inset).  All you see is flooded in rainy season. 
Landmine museum in Siem Reap - well worth a visit. 
Reminders of evil forces and sad times
A boat trip on the huge Tonle Sap lake (more like a mud pool). 
Buy the ticket ($10) at the checkpoint along the way and don't forget to tip your driver. 
Horsecart transport is still common in the remote town of Sisaphon,
at the far western extent of the Tonle Sap along the road to Poipet at the Thai border.  From here there is an alternative route which goes through the remote wild west town of Pailin - last stand of the Khmer Rouge in the Cardamom mountains and the worst place for malaria. 
Finally in Battambang at the "Smonkin Pot" restaurant. 
Battambang is touted as a "tranquil riverside town full of charming old Frech architecture".  More like a dirty city next to a muddy trench full of trash with neglected decayed buildings once build by French people who have long since abandonded the place. 
I guess it's all relative.  Battambang does have its limited charms, but I didn't stay long enough to find out.