hampi

The Sri Virupaksha Temple (AKA the Pampapathi Temple) is Hampi's Icon and most sacred place. Originally a simple shrine, it has an uninterrupted recorded history since the 7th century.

Sunset from the base of one of the many hills looking down the main street toward the town. Gorgeous sunsets are a nightly ritual and cause the already richly coloured rocks to come to life. As night cools the air these rocks give back the days heat and continue to radiate warmth for hours.

View over the Tungabhadra River basin from "my" side of the river where I stayed at night, looking at the town side. It costs 5 Rupee to cross the river in a small round straw boat called a corracle during the day, but the cost skyrockets to 20 Rupee (nearly 50 US cents) after sunset, so better plan ahead!

My first full day in Hampi I was lucky to witness the making of a Hindi musical on the hot stoney surfaces of Hemakuta Hill overlooking the town and river. I love the forced smiles and exaggerated expressions of the dancers

On a particularly hot day after climbing all over the surrounding hils and giant stones I discovered Nick and Peter resting their 1967 Volvo Amazon Estate in the shadow of the Sri Vittala temple. They had driven from London. They have a cool web site recounting their journey > > >

The interior of the Vittala temple contains "musical" stone pillars which reverberate when tapped (your not supposed to do it, but of course everyone does anyway) and this stone chariot who's wheels actually turned at some previous time, but it now lies parked here for eternity.

Cows staying cool in the hot afternoon. Hampi was the hottest place I experienced in India, sometimes reaching more than 40 degrees (100F) so as you would imagine the pace of life slows considerably at times.

A herd of goats passes the surrounding structures of the Vittala temple. This was built by King Krishnadevaraya (or actually some people who worked for him) in the early 1500's. It was never actually finished because the Vijayangar Empire, of which Hampi was the capital, was swiftly ended in 1565 by an invasion of Deccan sultans which resulted in Muslim invasion. Amazing to know this place was once the headquarters for the whole south of India.

My home at Sunny Guesthouse was probably the most peaceful place I stayed. It is on the edge of huge rice fields across the river from the town, and therefore much quieter and with no hassles. The only sounds came from the odd wandering cow or goat or farmers going about their day. The people who ran the place were honest and friendly.

After rising with the sun - which became something of a habit - I I climbed some of the hills surrounding "my" side of the river above Sunny Guesthouse, which is somewhere at the end of that sliver of rock cutting through the fields. Climbing around like this was something I took to like a monkey and I spent hours up there scrambling around in the amazing heat.
Word to the wise - Bring water!!!

A group of school children on a tour of Hampi's sacred sights pause enthusiastically for my camera. They are escorted by their teacher from atop his elephant.

Here along the river we can see corracles being made. The shell is made of woven leaves and branches and sealed with palm oil. It's a wonder these things can float, not to mention carry a dozen people each.

A corracle in action approaches my waiting feet. It's a relatively lucrative business for the small gang of boys who operate here. Heaven knows they will be sad when a bridge eventually connects the two sides (the ladder-shaped tower in the background marks the start of the project). Not only will it put the corracle boys out of a job, but it will bring more tourists to the now tranquil side over the river - pity.

Another lovely view of the river and main temple. It hadn't rained in many weeks and a dusty haze filled the air in the blazing heat.

"Hello sailor. New in town?" Clearly the artisans of the 16th century Vijayanagar Empire had a sense of humour.

My last chance to get a sunset photo from this spot. I'm getting a night bus to Gokarna and then Goa back out on the coast.